Cluses, Haute Savoie

Cluses has changed somewhat from the description given by Thomas Cook in his Traveller's handbook of Switzerland and Savoy dated 1922 which I acquired recently.

Describing it then as being on the right bank of the Arve river and chiefly inhabited by watchmakers and overshadowed by the Brezon precipices. Cluses is characterised by the booming of cannon "to awaken the echoes".

I am not sure if you could hear the echoes let alone wake them these days as the autoroute takes no prisoners, but the watch making history is still evident in the watchmakers museum still open to the public.

Certainly the expertise in watchmaking, albeit translated into light engineering now is testament to what Cook saw back at the turn of the century.

Now, Cluses is one of the main towns in the Arve Valley, situated at the foot of the northern French Alps and beneftiting from its great location less than 45mins from Geneva, Italy, Chamonix and Annecy. It is also the centre of the Faucigny region which is renowned for its fantastic ski resorts many just a short drive from the centre of Cluses.

Some people might recognise the name if they had taken note of the odd road sign on their way up to Chamonix or Megeve and particularly if they were heading off to the Grand Massif or Portes du Soleil ski resorts as you would have to turn off the A40 autoroute at Cluses to get to the latter two.

A bit of a thoroughfare as a consequenceof this proximity to one of the main arterial routes in France, it is characterised the Arve river rushing through it and by a decent enough square. But it is a sad fact that you can never really get away from the traffic, however if you are on the way through and do feel peckish then there are two reasons to stop.

The Chiangmai, 8 Rue Joseph-Nicollet, 0450891200 is a decent Thai restaurant with a friendly owner and he also does his food more to the British not French taste (i.e.spicier). I had the Tom Yam soup 8.50€ and the Nouille Sauté (Pad Thai) at 6€. It is just along from the square.

The 8th May in the road of the same name is also run by a friendly husband and wife team and its decent simple food and rapid friendly service is worth noting. With daily specials and its steak and chips it is a good excuse like the Chiangmai to break your journey. But don't go there on the 8th May- it is closed!

What's more you can nip off the A40 at junction 18 and back on at 19.

Miles Jefferson
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